San Miguel de Allende - Paradise Mexican Style!
By Sandi Durell
The historical City in the State of Guanajuato, Mexico, San Miguel de Allende, (www.internetsanmiguel.com/gethere.html ) is a small colorful town sitting in the mountains at an altitude of 6400 feet. The quaint little City of culture was founded in 1542 by a Spanish Franciscan missionary, Fray Juan de San Miguel. It is referred to, by many, as a ‘magical place.’
It was in the 18th Century that the heroes of the independence movement were born. Ignacio de Allende y Unzaga, a revolutionary, born on January 21, 1769, joined forces with Father Don Miguel Hidalgo leading the famous Cry of Independence speech in September 1810 and the resulting insurgency. But Spain was too strong and the patriots were defeated. Both Hidalgo and Allende, along with others, were executed, their heads hung in cages outside a Guanajuato granary. On March 8, 1826, in recognition of Allende’s heroism, the state government changed the name of the town to San Miguel de Allende.
In 1926 SMA was declared a National Monument, preserving the historical aspects of the town which is why the town is free of traffic lights today. With the opening of the Instituto Allende Art School in the late 1930’s, the foreign population began to grow and today retired Americans and Canadians make up much of the expat community, numbering between 2000-4000, depending upon season. I couldn’t wait to experience the magic and spent an extended period of stay during the winter months where the weather is spring-like most of the time.
San Miguel is a physical daily exercise in itself with its hilly cobble-stoned streets, narrow sidewalks and winding side streets. Every turn is a discovery of interesting little shops, boutiques, jewelers and artisans¸ art galleries and restaurants. The streets are very clean as the morning routine for shop-keepers is to sweep and wash the stone pavements. It is rare to see a piece of paper strewn on the streets. Crossing the street is unique, unlike New York City where I live, as traffic comes to a halt to allow pedestrians the right of way. There are no traffic lights in SMA. All the near traffic misses as automobiles pull up to corners, sometimes with only inches to spare as they turn and move about, does quicken the heartbeat.
Walking down and around the winding streets, one wonders what could be behind some of the large old wooden Hacienda doors and I was afforded the opportunity to find out on several occasions. Each time my surprise was broadened by the spectacular gardens, fountains and beautiful homes within; many with three living levels, high 14 foot ceilings, skylights and roof top gardens. True architectural wonders. The town is alive with the creativity of artists, writers, theatre people and musicians and includes a large population of Gringo public service groups who work tirelessly to benefit many Mexican charities. The weekly “Bible,” the newspaper Atencion (written in Spanish and English), lists every conceivable activity and happening. One would need an excessive number of hours or a clone in order to participate in everything. The central focus of all cultural activities is the Biblioteca, where concerts, movies, lectures and theatre abound and where the intelligencia usually hang out engaged in serious discussions on all topics.
Depending on one’s lifestyle, choices are innumerable when it comes to accommodations: hotels, B &B’s, apartments, villas, condos, and private homes….all available for rent. To be in the heart of it all, one would probably prefer the area known as “El Centro” where most everything is within walking distance. And if it’s not, then a taxi ride can be had for 25 pesos (a little more than $2.00) to any location within the main city of San Miguel. There’s also a bus available for 5 pesos.
“The Jardin” is the central meeting place in town, around which are many restaurants, stores and local street hawkers. At the Jardin in the Plaza Principal stands the beautiful 18th Century Parroquia (Church), constructed of rose colored quarry stone. The Church bells ring each morning beginning at 6:30 a.m. and if per chance you didn’t hear them, a repeat performance follows at 7:00 a.m.
The Jardin is the place where everyone congregates (especially on weekends) to exchange information about who’s doing what, where, when and with whom, and anything new and happening. It’s also a place to sit, read, make new friends and people watch. It’s Peyton Place Mexican style! On any weekend evening there are three or four different kinds of musical groups playing and singing, people dancing in the streets, lovers holding hands and embracing while swaying to the romantic sounds of the Mariachi bands.
If you crave lots of activities, you can brush up on your Spanish at one of the many Spanish schools; play Bridge at the San Miguel Bridge Club at the Hotel Real d’Minas.( www.hotelesrealdeminas.com.mx/ ) attend gallery art show openings that include cocktails and meeting new friends.
Aside from art classes offered at Bellas Artes (www.experience-san-miguel-de-allende.com/bellas-artes-el-nigromante.html ) and the Instituto de Allende,(www.instituto-allende.edu.mx/ ) many of the galleries hold classes in drawing, painting, sculpture, ceramics, jewelry making. I decided it was time to explore my inner artist (if I had one) and this was my golden opportunity. I signed on for Expressionist Life Drawing. My teacher was artist, Henry Vermillion, who has a gallery in town and is also an actor, director and set designer. The norm in SMA is the wearing of multi-creative hats! Guess what? I discovered I actually had a little talent.
Lest I forget, there are also cooking schools, yoga classes, zumba classes…you name it and it probably is happening in San Miguel. Even Arthur Murray has opened a studio with classes in Latin and Ballroom instruction!
My other activity of choice was tennis, which I’ve played for many years. Lo and behold, there were several tennis facilities available and I wound up at Weber’s red clay tennis courts where I hooked up with some other players and we enjoyed games and each other’s company several times a week. Playing at 6400 ft. above sea level with pressurized tennis balls surely added a new spin to the game, creating interesting challenges.
A plethora of restaurants fill the tiny streets. Aside from the obvious Mexican cuisine, ethnic foods prevail at every turn featuring Italian, Asian, French, American with outdoor dining in magical gardens of flowers, plants and fountains while the sounds of guitar or piano and romantic songs in Espanol and English enhance the flavors. And, needless to say, there’s also a Starbucks.
There’s good jazz and occasionally Doc Severinsen comes to town. There are several hot spots for music and dancing.
As for theatre, three Brits called “The Literary Cabaret”, have been stopping in SMA for the past 16 years offering up their brand of satirical humor of clever skits, poetry and songs featuring anything from Shakespeare to naughty Noel Coward and rock n’ roll.
The Teatro Santa Ana at the Biblioteca serves as a movie hall and also has a full season of theatrical productions with a roster of local talent from the SMA theatre community. St. Paul’s Church is a place for concert music with its ProMusica Series, bringing wonderful classical concerts to San Miguel. There is also opera¸ folk and flamenco.
The Play Readers are part of the theatre scene performing at St. Paul’s Church where rotating directors choose plays that are read on book by a cast of actors, accessorized with some scenery and costuming. I spent a highlight evening at the Biblioteca watching an award winning documentary “In a Dream.” The story is about Philadelphia mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar and his wife Julia. In the bohemian South Philly neighborhood, 50,000 square feet of concrete have been covered with tile and mirrors, all created by Zagar who shares his torture, torment and unusual lifestyle and family with audiences around the world. Their younger son filmed Isaiah and Julia’s day to day love story, subsequent betrayals, an older son’s drug problems, all captured and documented for the thousands who have viewed this remarkable film. The story can cause great discomfort at times, but that’s what makes great art. Isn’t it? The realities were enhanced when Isaiah and Julia appeared on stage post film showing, submitting themselves to audience questions and participating in a cocktail reception afterwards. It is a not-to-be missed film should one have the opportunity.
Speaking of films, there is a place called The Market Café where, approximately 15 years ago, a Frenchman named Daniel Sirdey cleverly started showing foreign and classic films. It happens in a small room that seats around 22 people who watch the films on a large screen, seated in large comfortable chairs. The price of 60 pesos also included a drink of choice (wine, beer, margaritas) and a bag of popcorn. What a deal!
I had a one time experience attending the small bullring in SMA where a famous Portugese rejoneadore (a bullfighter on horseback) namely, Pablo Hermosa de Mendoza, renowned for his skill, grace, genius and beautiful horses, was appearing. I was told he appears once every 3 years and I knew I had to have the experience. Rejoneo means using a lance and is the oldest form of bullfighting, an activity for the nobility - the Arabs in North Africa and later the Moorish in Spain. Matadors, using capes and swords, became prominent in the early 19th century.
A general admission ticket entitled me to a seat above the first four rows of reserved seats on a concrete slab. As the ring filled and excitement mounted, so did the cigarette and cigar smoke along with the cries of hawkers selling chips and hot sauce, beer, tequila and margaritas. People were jammed together, some on cushions others on the hard concrete. Three ladies sitting nearby shared some tequila, cap by cap, brought in a vitamin bottle passed between then.
Bullfighting is a gory business and not for the faint of heart. The poor bull doesn’t have a chance. But it is traditional pomp and circumstance and part of a cultural harmony. After seeing three animals slaughtered, I’d had enough while the crowd continued to yell “oh lay.”
SMA is the kind of town where total strangers stop and talk on the streets as everyone is anxious to get to know others, especially if you’re a newcomer.
In case you haven’t heard, SMA attracts many ladies from the States seeking beauty ala plastic surgery and such, at a third of the cost or less. There are a few fine surgeons (trained in the best USA hospitals) but do your research and get recommendations.
Don’t miss a visit to the historic Fabrica Aurora, an old cotton mill, (www.fabricalaaurora.com/welcome.html ) on the outskirts of town turned into gallery and studio space, where home furnishings, jewelry and antiques are plentiful. There are multi shops and spaces to visit, along with two delightful cafes when you get hungry.
Day trips and overnights are plentiful. I spent a wonderful day in the City of Guanajuato (it means the mountain place of frogs), a charming European style City and the capital of the State. It is a multi-colored, twisting cobblestoned wonder with a subterranean through which to drive and where visits to the Diego Rivera Museum and the Museum of Mummies can be highly enlightening. It houses the prestigious University of Guanajuato, considered Mexico’s finest school for music and theater. A ride on the finicular to the very top (about 6600 ft.) is a must for 360 degree views of this beautiful and colorful City which, in 1988, was declared a World Heritage Zone by UNESCO.
San Miguel is a favorite with retirees on fixed incomes as it provides a wonderful lifestyle at approximately one-half or less the cost of living in the States. It’s not for everyone as walking and getting around can be challenging to many. Most of the locals speak English which is a plus for those who know little to no Spanish. The bottom line, however, is that if one is active, somewhat rugged with a sense of adventure and loves a cultured, artistic environment….this is the place for you.
Here’s a quote I’ve heard repeated many times: “people go to Florida to die, but they come to San Miguel to live.” And, yes, I’m going back. Hasta luego amigos!
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Monday, July 26, 2010
AARP The Magazine Travels the Globe to Reveal the Top 5 Best Places to Retire Abroad
AARP The Magazine Travels the Globe to Reveal the Top 5 Best Places to Retire Abroad
WASHINGTON (July 26, 2010) – Experts in celebrating the next chapter in life, AARP The Magazine traveled the globe to discover the ultimate retirement destinations abroad. Factoring climate, expat community, cost of living, housing, health care, access to the U.S. and culture and leisure, AARP The Magazine reveals the top five locales in its September/October issue (www.aarp.org/magazine), available in homes and online today. See what regions in Mexico, France, Panama, Portugal and Italy have to offer—castles, palm trees, rain forests, grilled lobster—in their unique and unparalleled retirement experiences.
1. MEXICO—Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico is the undisputed number one destination for American retirees. With its rich Indian and Spanish culture, lavish beaches and affordable real-estate, Puerto Vallarta offers the low-cost, laid back lifestyle retirees seek to find in a community.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Winters—sunny, pleasantly warm; summers—rainy, humid hot
* Expat Community: Estimated at 50,000 American retirees
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent
2. FRANCE—Languedoc-Roussillon
Once remote, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is now just three hours from the bright lights and bustling energy of Paris via high-speed train. The area is steeped in history and art. Languedoc-Roussillon is also a destination for the outdoor crowd with picturesque hills and beach along its Mediterranean seashore.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mediterranean—hot and dry summers; cool winters
* Cost of Living: Not cheap, but a comfortably frugal life can be had for $30,000 a year
* Heath Care: Excellent. French health care has been named the best in the world by the World Health Organization
3. PANAMA—Boquete
Panama is a smart choice for retirees who want it all. Not only does it feature attractive retiree destinations, Panama also offers an unbeatable package of retiree benefits and discounts. Boquete has a unique range of back-home amenities, from a golf course to high-end gated communities.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Expat Community: An estimated several thousand
* Housing Costs: A small house goes for $175,000; in a gated community, $250,000 and up. Rentals: about $600 a month for a two bedroom house
* Culture and Leisure: Rainforest hiking, river rafting, bird watching and coffee plantation tours keep Panama a bustling location for leisure
4. PORTUGAL—Cascais
Many wonder why Portugal has long been overlooked by American retirees. A plentitude of golf, beaches, resorts and trendy café life makes Portugal one of Europe’s most pleasant surprises for retirees.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Cost of Living: A comfortable life can be had on $25,000 a year
* Health Care: Good. Nearby hospitals include the well-regarded British Hospital in Lisbon
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent. Direct flights to-and-from the U.S. fly out of Lisbon
5. ITALY—Le Marche
Le Marche, bordering the Adriatic, is beautiful region with vineyards, snow-capped mountains and beaches a plenty. It also prides itself on the best fish dishes in the country and is trendy enough to have snagged Dustin Hoffman as a tourism spokesperson!
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mostly sunny
* Expat Community: Relatively few; an international mix
* Culture and Leisure: An incomparable mix of open-air opera festivals, Renaissance painting and architecture, wine tasting and nature reserves
WASHINGTON (July 26, 2010) – Experts in celebrating the next chapter in life, AARP The Magazine traveled the globe to discover the ultimate retirement destinations abroad. Factoring climate, expat community, cost of living, housing, health care, access to the U.S. and culture and leisure, AARP The Magazine reveals the top five locales in its September/October issue (www.aarp.org/magazine), available in homes and online today. See what regions in Mexico, France, Panama, Portugal and Italy have to offer—castles, palm trees, rain forests, grilled lobster—in their unique and unparalleled retirement experiences.
1. MEXICO—Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico is the undisputed number one destination for American retirees. With its rich Indian and Spanish culture, lavish beaches and affordable real-estate, Puerto Vallarta offers the low-cost, laid back lifestyle retirees seek to find in a community.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Winters—sunny, pleasantly warm; summers—rainy, humid hot
* Expat Community: Estimated at 50,000 American retirees
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent
2. FRANCE—Languedoc-Roussillon
Once remote, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is now just three hours from the bright lights and bustling energy of Paris via high-speed train. The area is steeped in history and art. Languedoc-Roussillon is also a destination for the outdoor crowd with picturesque hills and beach along its Mediterranean seashore.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mediterranean—hot and dry summers; cool winters
* Cost of Living: Not cheap, but a comfortably frugal life can be had for $30,000 a year
* Heath Care: Excellent. French health care has been named the best in the world by the World Health Organization
3. PANAMA—Boquete
Panama is a smart choice for retirees who want it all. Not only does it feature attractive retiree destinations, Panama also offers an unbeatable package of retiree benefits and discounts. Boquete has a unique range of back-home amenities, from a golf course to high-end gated communities.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Expat Community: An estimated several thousand
* Housing Costs: A small house goes for $175,000; in a gated community, $250,000 and up. Rentals: about $600 a month for a two bedroom house
* Culture and Leisure: Rainforest hiking, river rafting, bird watching and coffee plantation tours keep Panama a bustling location for leisure
4. PORTUGAL—Cascais
Many wonder why Portugal has long been overlooked by American retirees. A plentitude of golf, beaches, resorts and trendy café life makes Portugal one of Europe’s most pleasant surprises for retirees.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Cost of Living: A comfortable life can be had on $25,000 a year
* Health Care: Good. Nearby hospitals include the well-regarded British Hospital in Lisbon
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent. Direct flights to-and-from the U.S. fly out of Lisbon
5. ITALY—Le Marche
Le Marche, bordering the Adriatic, is beautiful region with vineyards, snow-capped mountains and beaches a plenty. It also prides itself on the best fish dishes in the country and is trendy enough to have snagged Dustin Hoffman as a tourism spokesperson!
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mostly sunny
* Expat Community: Relatively few; an international mix
* Culture and Leisure: An incomparable mix of open-air opera festivals, Renaissance painting and architecture, wine tasting and nature reserves
AARP The Magazine Travels the Globe to Reveal the Top 5 Best Places to Retire Abroad
AARP The Magazine Travels the Globe to Reveal the Top 5 Best Places to Retire Abroad
WASHINGTON (July 26, 2010) – Experts in celebrating the next chapter in life, AARP The Magazine traveled the globe to discover the ultimate retirement destinations abroad. Factoring climate, expat community, cost of living, housing, health care, access to the U.S. and culture and leisure, AARP The Magazine reveals the top five locales in its September/October issue (www.aarp.org/magazine), available in homes and online today. See what regions in Mexico, France, Panama, Portugal and Italy have to offer—castles, palm trees, rain forests, grilled lobster—in their unique and unparalleled retirement experiences.
1. MEXICO—Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico is the undisputed number one destination for American retirees. With its rich Indian and Spanish culture, lavish beaches and affordable real-estate, Puerto Vallarta offers the low-cost, laid back lifestyle retirees seek to find in a community.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Winters—sunny, pleasantly warm; summers—rainy, humid hot
* Expat Community: Estimated at 50,000 American retirees
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent
2. FRANCE—Languedoc-Roussillon
Once remote, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is now just three hours from the bright lights and bustling energy of Paris via high-speed train. The area is steeped in history and art. Languedoc-Roussillon is also a destination for the outdoor crowd with picturesque hills and beach along its Mediterranean seashore.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mediterranean—hot and dry summers; cool winters
* Cost of Living: Not cheap, but a comfortably frugal life can be had for $30,000 a year
* Heath Care: Excellent. French health care has been named the best in the world by the World Health Organization
3. PANAMA—Boquete
Panama is a smart choice for retirees who want it all. Not only does it feature attractive retiree destinations, Panama also offers an unbeatable package of retiree benefits and discounts. Boquete has a unique range of back-home amenities, from a golf course to high-end gated communities.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Expat Community: An estimated several thousand
* Housing Costs: A small house goes for $175,000; in a gated community, $250,000 and up. Rentals: about $600 a month for a two bedroom house
* Culture and Leisure: Rainforest hiking, river rafting, bird watching and coffee plantation tours keep Panama a bustling location for leisure
4. PORTUGAL—Cascais
Many wonder why Portugal has long been overlooked by American retirees. A plentitude of golf, beaches, resorts and trendy café life makes Portugal one of Europe’s most pleasant surprises for retirees.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Cost of Living: A comfortable life can be had on $25,000 a year
* Health Care: Good. Nearby hospitals include the well-regarded British Hospital in Lisbon
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent. Direct flights to-and-from the U.S. fly out of Lisbon
5. ITALY—Le Marche
Le Marche, bordering the Adriatic, is beautiful region with vineyards, snow-capped mountains and beaches a plenty. It also prides itself on the best fish dishes in the country and is trendy enough to have snagged Dustin Hoffman as a tourism spokesperson!
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mostly sunny
* Expat Community: Relatively few; an international mix
* Culture and Leisure: An incomparable mix of open-air opera festivals, Renaissance painting and architecture, wine tasting and nature reserves
WASHINGTON (July 26, 2010) – Experts in celebrating the next chapter in life, AARP The Magazine traveled the globe to discover the ultimate retirement destinations abroad. Factoring climate, expat community, cost of living, housing, health care, access to the U.S. and culture and leisure, AARP The Magazine reveals the top five locales in its September/October issue (www.aarp.org/magazine), available in homes and online today. See what regions in Mexico, France, Panama, Portugal and Italy have to offer—castles, palm trees, rain forests, grilled lobster—in their unique and unparalleled retirement experiences.
1. MEXICO—Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico is the undisputed number one destination for American retirees. With its rich Indian and Spanish culture, lavish beaches and affordable real-estate, Puerto Vallarta offers the low-cost, laid back lifestyle retirees seek to find in a community.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Winters—sunny, pleasantly warm; summers—rainy, humid hot
* Expat Community: Estimated at 50,000 American retirees
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent
2. FRANCE—Languedoc-Roussillon
Once remote, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is now just three hours from the bright lights and bustling energy of Paris via high-speed train. The area is steeped in history and art. Languedoc-Roussillon is also a destination for the outdoor crowd with picturesque hills and beach along its Mediterranean seashore.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mediterranean—hot and dry summers; cool winters
* Cost of Living: Not cheap, but a comfortably frugal life can be had for $30,000 a year
* Heath Care: Excellent. French health care has been named the best in the world by the World Health Organization
3. PANAMA—Boquete
Panama is a smart choice for retirees who want it all. Not only does it feature attractive retiree destinations, Panama also offers an unbeatable package of retiree benefits and discounts. Boquete has a unique range of back-home amenities, from a golf course to high-end gated communities.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Expat Community: An estimated several thousand
* Housing Costs: A small house goes for $175,000; in a gated community, $250,000 and up. Rentals: about $600 a month for a two bedroom house
* Culture and Leisure: Rainforest hiking, river rafting, bird watching and coffee plantation tours keep Panama a bustling location for leisure
4. PORTUGAL—Cascais
Many wonder why Portugal has long been overlooked by American retirees. A plentitude of golf, beaches, resorts and trendy café life makes Portugal one of Europe’s most pleasant surprises for retirees.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Cost of Living: A comfortable life can be had on $25,000 a year
* Health Care: Good. Nearby hospitals include the well-regarded British Hospital in Lisbon
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent. Direct flights to-and-from the U.S. fly out of Lisbon
5. ITALY—Le Marche
Le Marche, bordering the Adriatic, is beautiful region with vineyards, snow-capped mountains and beaches a plenty. It also prides itself on the best fish dishes in the country and is trendy enough to have snagged Dustin Hoffman as a tourism spokesperson!
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mostly sunny
* Expat Community: Relatively few; an international mix
* Culture and Leisure: An incomparable mix of open-air opera festivals, Renaissance painting and architecture, wine tasting and nature reserves
Sunday, January 3, 2010
36 Hours in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
New York Times - December 27, 2009
36 Hours in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
By ROCKY CASALE
Published: December 27, 2009
With its breezy blue skies and baroque architecture, San Miguel de Allende has been a tropical haven for expatriates and retirees since the 1930s. The recent housing boom drew an even larger flock of snowbirds (mostly American) to this city in central Mexico, and with it came a new perch for post-hippie boutiques, vegan organic cafes and uneven art galleries. Old-timers started grousing about its Disneyfication. Luckily, the colonial town — which dates back to the 16th century and still bears traces of Spanish, Creole and Native American cultures — was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 2008. While San Miguel doesn’t need any more attention, the designation helps ensure that the town’s candy-colored haciendas, romantic cobblestone lanes and rose-tinted turrets are around to survive another housing bubble.
Friday
4 p.m.1) MOSS AND MARIACHI
Get a sense of San Miguel’s understated colonial grandeur with a stroll along the palm-lined paths of Parque Juárez, a sun-dappled garden with pocked stone pillars and archways and fountains tarnished with mildew or overrun with moss. Hushed streets and lush trees occupy this part of town — as well as artists and writers, like Michael Cristofer, the playwright and filmmaker, who owns a Spanish colonial home insulated by beautiful gardens. If you return to the park after dark, there’s a good chance you’ll catch an impromptu concert of one-man banjo bands and mariachi singers.
7 p.m.2) DINE AND DANCE
The city’s food scene is less riveting than one would expect from a melting pot of Mexican and expat cultures, but one exception is Tio Lucas Restaurant & Bar (Calle Mesones 103; 52-415-152-4996). The steakhouse extends to a crowded patio for outside dining under strings of warmly lighted star-shaped lanterns. Toothsome steaks, strong margaritas and warmed beet root and goat cheese salads mixed tableside by the chef are what attract return customers. Dinner for two with drinks is about 600 pesos, or about $48 at 12.45 pesos to the dollar. The restaurant is decorated with Mexican crafts and stenciled cutouts of dancing skeletons. Tio Lucas doubles as a jazz joint, with nightly performances at 9 p.m.
10 p.m.3) MITTE IN MEXICO
Night life in San Miguel tends to fall along two lines: you either scream over piercing club tracks or you don’t. On Calle Umaran, girls in flouncy skirts stand outside seedy sports bars teasing tousled-haired boys. Steps away, Mexican women sit in the bosky El Jardín with grandchildren on their laps listening to mariachi bands or watching fireworks bloom overhead. The mellow alternative nearby is Berlin Bar and Cafe (Calle Umaran 19; 52-415-154-9432). Run by expatriates from Germany, this chill and trendy bar draws a silver fox set who stop by for its strong drinks and artsy crowd. Couples chat and listen to jazz in candlelit nooks near a bar decorated with huge paintings of artists and intellectuals from Weimar Berlin and other periods in Germany’s history.
Saturday
9 a.m.4) DESAYUNO TO GO
People stand in line for coffee at La Ventana Café Orgánico de Chiapas (Diez de Sollano y Dávalos 11; 52-415 154-7728) for a good reason. It’s not just because the organic coffee is dark and rich and the pastries fresh and flaky, but because you can’t actually go inside: La Ventana is a takeout window on the side of a faded yellow hacienda. Order an espresso and a warm croissant for 59 pesos. Take your breakfast two blocks down the road to El Jardín and sit on a bench beneath the lollypop-shaped laurel trees, where you’ll have a moment without the crowds to appreciate streaks of early-morning sunlight on La Parroquia church.
11:30 a.m.5) FEW GOOD FINDS
Souvenir shops selling Day of the Dead skeleton dolls are everywhere, which means shopping here can quickly become dull. For quirkier finds, walk east away from the center of town to Mixta (Calle Pila Seca 16A, Centro; 52-415-152-7343), a new shop that sells fine silver bangles and earrings, homemade cards and aprons stitched by local women. Farther north is Fábrica La Aurora (Calzada de la Aurora, Colonia Aurora; 52-415-152-1012; www.fabricalaaurora.com), a former turn-of-the-century textile mill turned into a design and art center. One highlight is Galería Manuel Chacon, which carries contemporary art.
1:30 p.m.6) BURRITOVILLE
When Rodrigo Pak Sautto wasn’t in upstate New York selling burritos out of an aluminum camper outside Bard College, he was building his business in San Miguel making yogurt smoothies and granola at his now popular Café Media Naranja (Calle Hidalgo 83). Housed in a tiny shoebox of a cafe, it attracts crunchy Anglos and earthy vegans who stop in for organic coffees and a quick lunch of vegetarian burritos and curried lentil soup (37 to 90 pesos) and to surf its free Wi-Fi.
4 p.m.7) CRAFTY CURIOSITIES
Down a narrow alley behind the city’s main fruit and vegetable market is the Mercado de Artesanias (between Calle Colegio and Calle Loreto), a vibrant mash of artists’ stalls where you’ll find everything from flossy fringed piñatas and punched-tin lanterns dangling overhead to baskets of cobalt blue glass beads and silver necklaces. Its offerings are more authentic than the trinkets and curios sold in the historic district, and possibly half the price.
8 p.m.8) WORLD SPICES
Follow the well-heeled expats to the flagstone courtyard at The Restaurant (Sollano 16, Centro; 52-415-154-7862; www.therestaurantsanmiguel.com), an elegant and candlelit restaurant that serves international comfort dishes using organic ingredients from local ranchers, growers and dairy farmers. Donnie Masterton, the chef, changes the menu frequently. Recent dishes included a miso-marinated and broiled Pacific salmon with soy, ginger green beans, and grilled pork chops with white bean and cherry tomato ragout (each 200 pesos).
10:30 p.m.9) LUCKY GAUCHOS
For a festive nightcap, make your way to Limrick (Calle Umaran 2), a busy bar in a soaring hacienda that takes its design cue from an Irish pub. Mexicans and Americans of every ilk, from the landed elite to the louche locals, chat in cozy booths, throw darts and watch soccer on the television. If the night still feels young, head to La Cucaracha (Calle Zacateros 22; 52-415-152-0196), an after-hours bar decorated with faded pinup posters and yellowing maps of the area. The crowd might include D-list actors in hiding and old gauchos parked permanently at the bar.
Sunday
10 a.m.10) HOT BATH
Near the outskirts of San Miguel, underground hot springs percolate to the surface and form pools. A five-minute cab ride out of town takes you to La Gruta (six miles outside San Miguel), a slightly shabby water park and picnic spot favored by locals. Two small mineral hot springs and a grotto are bordered by stone retaining walls, palm trees, wildflowers and sprays of bougainvillea.
1 p.m.11) CACTOPHILE’S PARADISE
Bird-watchers, outdoorsmen and city slickers will all appreciate the brambly valleys of El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden (El Charco del Ingenio; 52-415-154-8838; www.elcharco.org.mx), a 167-acre ecological reserve spanning cactus-lined canyons and spring-fed pools. A 40-peso fee gives you access to easy hiking trails festooned with giant agaves and nopal cactus where egrets and swallows roost and peck at spiny fruits. The greenhouse, which resembles a small airplane hangar, shelters hundreds of rare and endangered plants. It’s the kind of place locals come to take in the natural surrounding beauty, perhaps when things feel a little too Disney.
THE BASICS
The nearest commercial airports are Querétaro (about 45 miles away) and León-Guanajuato (about 70 miles). A recent Web search found a Continental Airlines flight from Newark to Querétaro, with a stopover in Houston, starting at about $550 for travel next month. The sometimes cheaper alternative is to fly into Mexico City, which offers more flights, and make the four-hour drive.
This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:
Correction: January 10, 2010 The 36 Hours column on Dec. 27, about San Miguel de Allende, misspelled the surname of a playwright and filmmaker and referred incorrectly to his house near Parque Juárez. He is Michael Cristofer, not Cristopher, and he owns the house in that neighborhood, he does not rent it.
36 Hours in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
By ROCKY CASALE
Published: December 27, 2009
With its breezy blue skies and baroque architecture, San Miguel de Allende has been a tropical haven for expatriates and retirees since the 1930s. The recent housing boom drew an even larger flock of snowbirds (mostly American) to this city in central Mexico, and with it came a new perch for post-hippie boutiques, vegan organic cafes and uneven art galleries. Old-timers started grousing about its Disneyfication. Luckily, the colonial town — which dates back to the 16th century and still bears traces of Spanish, Creole and Native American cultures — was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 2008. While San Miguel doesn’t need any more attention, the designation helps ensure that the town’s candy-colored haciendas, romantic cobblestone lanes and rose-tinted turrets are around to survive another housing bubble.
Friday
4 p.m.1) MOSS AND MARIACHI
Get a sense of San Miguel’s understated colonial grandeur with a stroll along the palm-lined paths of Parque Juárez, a sun-dappled garden with pocked stone pillars and archways and fountains tarnished with mildew or overrun with moss. Hushed streets and lush trees occupy this part of town — as well as artists and writers, like Michael Cristofer, the playwright and filmmaker, who owns a Spanish colonial home insulated by beautiful gardens. If you return to the park after dark, there’s a good chance you’ll catch an impromptu concert of one-man banjo bands and mariachi singers.
7 p.m.2) DINE AND DANCE
The city’s food scene is less riveting than one would expect from a melting pot of Mexican and expat cultures, but one exception is Tio Lucas Restaurant & Bar (Calle Mesones 103; 52-415-152-4996). The steakhouse extends to a crowded patio for outside dining under strings of warmly lighted star-shaped lanterns. Toothsome steaks, strong margaritas and warmed beet root and goat cheese salads mixed tableside by the chef are what attract return customers. Dinner for two with drinks is about 600 pesos, or about $48 at 12.45 pesos to the dollar. The restaurant is decorated with Mexican crafts and stenciled cutouts of dancing skeletons. Tio Lucas doubles as a jazz joint, with nightly performances at 9 p.m.
10 p.m.3) MITTE IN MEXICO
Night life in San Miguel tends to fall along two lines: you either scream over piercing club tracks or you don’t. On Calle Umaran, girls in flouncy skirts stand outside seedy sports bars teasing tousled-haired boys. Steps away, Mexican women sit in the bosky El Jardín with grandchildren on their laps listening to mariachi bands or watching fireworks bloom overhead. The mellow alternative nearby is Berlin Bar and Cafe (Calle Umaran 19; 52-415-154-9432). Run by expatriates from Germany, this chill and trendy bar draws a silver fox set who stop by for its strong drinks and artsy crowd. Couples chat and listen to jazz in candlelit nooks near a bar decorated with huge paintings of artists and intellectuals from Weimar Berlin and other periods in Germany’s history.
Saturday
9 a.m.4) DESAYUNO TO GO
People stand in line for coffee at La Ventana Café Orgánico de Chiapas (Diez de Sollano y Dávalos 11; 52-415 154-7728) for a good reason. It’s not just because the organic coffee is dark and rich and the pastries fresh and flaky, but because you can’t actually go inside: La Ventana is a takeout window on the side of a faded yellow hacienda. Order an espresso and a warm croissant for 59 pesos. Take your breakfast two blocks down the road to El Jardín and sit on a bench beneath the lollypop-shaped laurel trees, where you’ll have a moment without the crowds to appreciate streaks of early-morning sunlight on La Parroquia church.
11:30 a.m.5) FEW GOOD FINDS
Souvenir shops selling Day of the Dead skeleton dolls are everywhere, which means shopping here can quickly become dull. For quirkier finds, walk east away from the center of town to Mixta (Calle Pila Seca 16A, Centro; 52-415-152-7343), a new shop that sells fine silver bangles and earrings, homemade cards and aprons stitched by local women. Farther north is Fábrica La Aurora (Calzada de la Aurora, Colonia Aurora; 52-415-152-1012; www.fabricalaaurora.com), a former turn-of-the-century textile mill turned into a design and art center. One highlight is Galería Manuel Chacon, which carries contemporary art.
1:30 p.m.6) BURRITOVILLE
When Rodrigo Pak Sautto wasn’t in upstate New York selling burritos out of an aluminum camper outside Bard College, he was building his business in San Miguel making yogurt smoothies and granola at his now popular Café Media Naranja (Calle Hidalgo 83). Housed in a tiny shoebox of a cafe, it attracts crunchy Anglos and earthy vegans who stop in for organic coffees and a quick lunch of vegetarian burritos and curried lentil soup (37 to 90 pesos) and to surf its free Wi-Fi.
4 p.m.7) CRAFTY CURIOSITIES
Down a narrow alley behind the city’s main fruit and vegetable market is the Mercado de Artesanias (between Calle Colegio and Calle Loreto), a vibrant mash of artists’ stalls where you’ll find everything from flossy fringed piñatas and punched-tin lanterns dangling overhead to baskets of cobalt blue glass beads and silver necklaces. Its offerings are more authentic than the trinkets and curios sold in the historic district, and possibly half the price.
8 p.m.8) WORLD SPICES
Follow the well-heeled expats to the flagstone courtyard at The Restaurant (Sollano 16, Centro; 52-415-154-7862; www.therestaurantsanmiguel.com), an elegant and candlelit restaurant that serves international comfort dishes using organic ingredients from local ranchers, growers and dairy farmers. Donnie Masterton, the chef, changes the menu frequently. Recent dishes included a miso-marinated and broiled Pacific salmon with soy, ginger green beans, and grilled pork chops with white bean and cherry tomato ragout (each 200 pesos).
10:30 p.m.9) LUCKY GAUCHOS
For a festive nightcap, make your way to Limrick (Calle Umaran 2), a busy bar in a soaring hacienda that takes its design cue from an Irish pub. Mexicans and Americans of every ilk, from the landed elite to the louche locals, chat in cozy booths, throw darts and watch soccer on the television. If the night still feels young, head to La Cucaracha (Calle Zacateros 22; 52-415-152-0196), an after-hours bar decorated with faded pinup posters and yellowing maps of the area. The crowd might include D-list actors in hiding and old gauchos parked permanently at the bar.
Sunday
10 a.m.10) HOT BATH
Near the outskirts of San Miguel, underground hot springs percolate to the surface and form pools. A five-minute cab ride out of town takes you to La Gruta (six miles outside San Miguel), a slightly shabby water park and picnic spot favored by locals. Two small mineral hot springs and a grotto are bordered by stone retaining walls, palm trees, wildflowers and sprays of bougainvillea.
1 p.m.11) CACTOPHILE’S PARADISE
Bird-watchers, outdoorsmen and city slickers will all appreciate the brambly valleys of El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden (El Charco del Ingenio; 52-415-154-8838; www.elcharco.org.mx), a 167-acre ecological reserve spanning cactus-lined canyons and spring-fed pools. A 40-peso fee gives you access to easy hiking trails festooned with giant agaves and nopal cactus where egrets and swallows roost and peck at spiny fruits. The greenhouse, which resembles a small airplane hangar, shelters hundreds of rare and endangered plants. It’s the kind of place locals come to take in the natural surrounding beauty, perhaps when things feel a little too Disney.
THE BASICS
The nearest commercial airports are Querétaro (about 45 miles away) and León-Guanajuato (about 70 miles). A recent Web search found a Continental Airlines flight from Newark to Querétaro, with a stopover in Houston, starting at about $550 for travel next month. The sometimes cheaper alternative is to fly into Mexico City, which offers more flights, and make the four-hour drive.
This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:
Correction: January 10, 2010 The 36 Hours column on Dec. 27, about San Miguel de Allende, misspelled the surname of a playwright and filmmaker and referred incorrectly to his house near Parque Juárez. He is Michael Cristofer, not Cristopher, and he owns the house in that neighborhood, he does not rent it.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Destination Wedding in Puerto Vallarta with Mexican Destinations
Weddings are popular in Puerto Vallarta, and for good reason. A town that knows how to entertain tourists and groups, you will find the utmost service and attention to detail from a wide variety of hotels, resorts and luxury villas. With a mixture of mountains, ocean and cobblestone streets, Puerto Vallarta is like no other Mexican destination. Couples can avail themselves of secluded beaches, romantic restaurants, sunset cruises, hot air ballon rides, lively nightlife (for those who want it), shopping and day trips or the freedom of doing nothing at all. Regardless, it all adds up to the perfect blend of ingredients for an incredibly memorable romantic holiday.
Contact Mexican Destinations and let us help you with your unique destination wedding.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Exclusive Destination: Punta Mita
Punta Mita is located on Mexico's Pacific Coast, about 30 minutes northwest of the international airport in Puerto Vallarta, one of Mexico's premier vacation destinations. Punta Mita is easily accessible by air and is just a few hours from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, Dallas and other major cities in the United States.
Situated at the northern tip of Banderas Bay, Mexico's deepest natural bay, and bordered by the rugged Sierra Madre Mountains to the east. The Punta Mita peninsula is surrounded on three sides by white, coral-sand beaches and crystalline waters. The land features a rich bio-diversity that includes numerous species of tropical fauna and flora while the warm waters teem with tropical fish, turtles, and other aquatic life.
Punta Mita is also home to the luxurious Four Seasons Resort, including the 18 hole Jack Nicklaus championship golf course, restaurants and spa.
With Mexican Destinations, pick your perfect Punta Mita vacation rental.Sunday, August 9, 2009
Getting to Puerto Vallarta
Find out how you can get to Puerto Vallarta
By Air - You can fly to Puerto Vallarta from the United States and and other points in Mexico including Guadalajara, La Paz, Leon and Mexico City.Puerto Vallarta's international airport is extremely well-served by a range of airlines. Flying is the most sensible way to get to Puerto Vallarta, unless you are on a budget, and don't mind the wait (and want to see the sights along the way).
By Car - The road journey to Puerto Vallarta from inland Mexico (e.g. Guadalajara, Mexico City, Chihuahua, et al) is mountainous and winding. The easiest route in and out of Puerto Vallarta is by using Highway 200 -- the coast road -- although if you plan to go inland to Guadalajara or Mexico City, then this road will take you well out of the way you really want to go. Expect it to take longer than you anticipate if you've only looked at non-topographical road map. Traveling out of Puerto Vallarta by road north to Punta de Mita, or south to Costalegre and Manzanillo is straightforward: the roads are good and the terrain is easy to negotiate in a car.
By Bus - You can travel to Puerto Vallarta on a luxury bus from Mexico City - but note that the trip will take around 14 hours. From Guadalajara, the journey time is about 6-7 hours. Puerto Vallarta is flanked by large mountains, so the roads in and out of the area are steep, winding, and take time to negotiate.
Before you leave, make sure to take full advantage of our luxury villa vacation rentals.
By Air - You can fly to Puerto Vallarta from the United States and and other points in Mexico including Guadalajara, La Paz, Leon and Mexico City.Puerto Vallarta's international airport is extremely well-served by a range of airlines. Flying is the most sensible way to get to Puerto Vallarta, unless you are on a budget, and don't mind the wait (and want to see the sights along the way).
By Car - The road journey to Puerto Vallarta from inland Mexico (e.g. Guadalajara, Mexico City, Chihuahua, et al) is mountainous and winding. The easiest route in and out of Puerto Vallarta is by using Highway 200 -- the coast road -- although if you plan to go inland to Guadalajara or Mexico City, then this road will take you well out of the way you really want to go. Expect it to take longer than you anticipate if you've only looked at non-topographical road map. Traveling out of Puerto Vallarta by road north to Punta de Mita, or south to Costalegre and Manzanillo is straightforward: the roads are good and the terrain is easy to negotiate in a car.
By Bus - You can travel to Puerto Vallarta on a luxury bus from Mexico City - but note that the trip will take around 14 hours. From Guadalajara, the journey time is about 6-7 hours. Puerto Vallarta is flanked by large mountains, so the roads in and out of the area are steep, winding, and take time to negotiate.
Before you leave, make sure to take full advantage of our luxury villa vacation rentals.
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